The smokiness and fat balance each other somewhat, but not entirely. Though we miss the intimate view of the chefs at work, now that the bar section is gone, we get to watch as the stylish, oblong glass panels are carried in laden with sushi and sashimi pieces. It was pleasant to me. Sweet, creamy raw shrimp from Fjällbacka mingle with a high-gloss fat cap from dry-aged rib-eye and a small piece of sirloin steak that is cooked on hot stones at the table. A sesame-sprinkled rack of lamb, Korean BBQ-style, comes with asparagus, broccoli and goat's cheese cream.
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Some diners are seated in front of the large windows, with the quay and the castle as a backdrop across the water, while some look into the open kitchen and talk to the staff, and still others have eyes mostly for each other.
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The service is quick and friendly, without unnecessary flourishes and, above all, they are well versed in what is served on the plate and in the glass. The always-crispy potato pancake with caviar is another. Yes, everything related to beverage making is in a class by itself here — beer, wine, liquor, juice — the alcohol content does not matter when it comes to the level of dedication. But the kitchen does have a way with pig. Like at its sister restaurant Babette in Vasastan that opened inthe atmosphere at Café Nizza is characterised by the well-renowned ownership team. Take the beautiful, pickled orange coils of pumpkin, for example, with watercress and roasted pumpkin seeds on an herby bed, or the umami-packed cold Gruyère tart.